In the Land Down Under: Best Sydney Bookstores
Nothing says more to me about a city than its bookstores. Whenever I visit a new location, I make it a point to visit as many bookshops as I can. In early August, I spent ten days in Sydney, Australia. While there, I had the opportunity to explore several Sydney bookstores. To find these great book locations, I relied heavily on the information in the article “The Ten Best Bookstores in Sydney” by Madeline Watts. The article can be found on the Concrete Playground website. I made it to five of the ones Watts mentioned, but I also found a new one along the way.
Berkelouw Books (photo from visitpaddington.com.au)
1. Berkelouw Books —19 Oxford Street, Paddington
Of all the bookshops I visited, Berkelouw is where I spent the most time. What I liked best about this bookstore was its three levels and its café. I had a delicious mid-morning snack of raisin toast and jam along with some chai tea. Their menu is not extensive, but their prices are reasonable. The store has many comfy chairs located on the second floor, and none of them match. I felt instantly at home with their unpretentious furniture. As for the books, the store boasts an impressive selection. On the first floor, one will find book-related knickknacks as well as newly released works. The second floor is a mixture of old and new. Berkelouw buys books and resells them. I purchased a secondhand book titled The Draining Lake by Icelandic author Arnaldur Indriđason (look for an article about him in the near future). The third floor is devoted to pre-owned books. A great place to visit, and only a little over a mile from the city’s famed Hyde Park, Berkelouw Books is a great place to spend some time for those staying in central Sydney. The franchise does have other stores located in the city as well.
Ariel Books (photo from i.toau-media.com)
2. Ariel Books —42 Oxford Street, Paddington
Almost directly across the street from Berkelouw Books is small but quaint Ariel Books. Ariel Books has a sizable section of children’s works as well as new releases. The store does not have a huge selection, but it is attractively decorated and has a nice atmosphere about it. The staff are quite friendly, too. Ariel Books has some wonderful gift ideas, such as a wide array of paper products including notebooks and cards. They also have children’s gifts.
Ampersand Café Bookstore (photo from www.brasseriebread.com.au).
3. Ampersand Café Bookstore —78 Oxford Street, Paddington
Right down the street from Berkelouw and Ariel is Ampersand Café Bookstore. Like Berkelouw, Ampersand has three floors of books and is packed from ceiling to floor on each level. To tell the truth, I found Ampersand to be a little cramped. Part of the reason I felt that way is because I visited their café during the lunch rush, and people were jostling for tables in their open-air area as well as trying to find space at the long table in the basement level. My lunch was a concoction of mozzarella cheese with sun-ripened tomato-flavored rice, along with a piping-hot pot of Earl Grey tea. As for the books, the store has a massive selection of secondhand works. In a lovely case between levels two and three are first-edition copies of several well-known, popular works. Ampersand is a great bookstore, but I recommend visiting at non-meal times.
The Bookshop Darlinghurst (photo from www.ihuawen.com)
4. The Bookshop Darlinghurst —207 Oxford Street, Darlinghurst
I stumbled upon The Bookshop on my way to find the three aforementioned bookstores. Located a mere quarter of a mile closer to Hyde Park, The Bookshop is considered to be in the Darlinghurst area instead of Paddington, but it is certainly within walking distance of the Paddington stores. The Bookshop is home to Sydney’s most extensive selection of LGBT literature. I wandered into the shop right as it opened, and I had the opportunity to talk at length with owner Les McDonald, who was courteous and helpful. The Bookshop has two levels with new releases on the first floor and used books on the second. In addition to LGBT material, Les also sells popular bestsellers.
Sappho Books, Café and Wine Bar (photo from www.sapphobooks.com.au)
5. Sappho Books, Café and Wine Bar —51 Glebe Point Road, Glebe
To get to Sappho Books from my central location near Hyde Park was quite a hike. I recommend taking a bus there instead, but either way, go on a Saturday when the open market is in operation! The open market has nearly 100 vendors packed in a tiny park across the street from Sappho, and time there is well spent if you want a handmade souvenir from Australia. As for Sappho, in addition to its numerous secondhand books, the store is also home to a café and wine bar, which are located on the first level. The space is very tiny, and if you want to enjoy beverages at the store, then go at off-peak hours because the outside courtyard is limited in seating. Like Ampersand, Sappho is packed with used books. I picked up a leather-bound copy of Agatha Christie’s The Hound of Death for A$10 (about $8.50 US). The only downside I could find about Sappho was that the store was tightly packed, making it hard to maneuver in so small a space.
Gleebooks (photo from Gleebooks website)
6. Gleebooks —49 Glebe Point Road, Glebe
Like Berkelouw, Gleebooks has several locations around Sydney. The one I visited is next door to Sappho Books. If you want new releases and you are in the Glebe area, then visit Gleebooks. Gleebooks is much brighter and more open than Sappho. The space is not nearly as cramped either. Like Ariel Books, Gleebooks offers a nice gift selection of bookmarks, cards, and an assortment of other items. Gleebooks has a helpful staff, and one can spend several delightful hours browsing their extensive titles. The store lacks one small detail: comfy chairs in which to review selections before purchasing.
Sydney is home to many bookstores, but the six listed here are the ones I had a chance to visit. I recommend Berkelouw for selection and Ampersand for food, but any time spent in a bookstore is, in my opinion, time well spent!
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Inspector Erlendur returns in this international Bestseller Following an earthquake, the water level of an Icelandic lake suddenly falls, revealing a skeleton. Inspector Erlendur’s investigation takes him back to the Cold War era, when bright, left-wing students in Iceland were sent to study in the “heavenly state” of Communist East Germany. Teeming with spies and informants, though, their “heavenly state” becomes a nightmare of betrayal and murder. Brilliantly weaving international espionage and a chilling cold case investigation, The Draining Lake is Arnaldur Indridason at his best.
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Mollie Smith Waters
When did you go to Sydney? I loved Sydney when I was there.
August 2-10, 2014. It’s winter there during August, but still nice!